Himara
There is a spot on the Ionian coast where the Ceraunian Mountains plunge steeply into a sea that changes colour with every hour of...
Updated 8 July 2026
Himara
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This season · July · Summer
What to do in Himara now
The story
The story of Himara
Ancient origins: the land of Chaonia
The earliest traces of settlement in this area date back to the Illyrian era, when local tribes occupied the slopes of the Ceraunian Mountains facing the Ionian Sea. With the expansion of Greek colonisation along the coasts of Epirus, the region entered the Hellenic cultural orbit, becoming part of Chaonia, one of the historical territories of northern Epirus. The very name Himara, likely of Greek root linked to the idea of winter or a place exposed to the elements, testifies to this linguistic stratification that still coexists today with Albanian place names. For centuries the area remained a crossroads between the Greek world and the Illyrian world, a frontier condition that would shape its destiny until the modern age.
Byzantines, Venetians and the long Ottoman autonomy
Having come under the Eastern Roman Empire, Himara experienced a long Byzantine period during which numerous churches were built, some of which still survive in the villages of the area. With the crisis of Byzantium, the coast was contested between Normans, Angevins and the Republic of Venice, which maintained garrisons and trading posts there for alternating periods given the strategic position facing the Strait of Otranto. With the arrival of the Ottomans, unlike much of the Balkans, Himara managed to preserve a condition of semi-autonomy for centuries: its population, largely of Greek language and rite, long resisted forced Islamisation and obtained fiscal and administrative privileges in exchange for formal loyalty to the Sublime Porte, giving rise to one of the most cohesive Christian communities in the entire empire.
The Castle of Himara and the old town
The historic heart of the province is the Castle of Himara, a fortress of ancient origin rebuilt several times in the Byzantine era and later altered under Ottoman rule, which overlooks the town centre and the bay below from above. Its stone walls still enclose an inhabited nucleus today, with narrow alleys, stone houses with tiled roofs and small churches that testify to the continuity of Christian religious life over the centuries. Climbing through the alleys of the old village, one breathes the atmosphere of a fortified settlement suspended in time, while from the ramparts the view sweeps across the entire gulf, as far as the Greek islands of Corfu and Paxos on the clearest days.
Porto Palermo, Ali Pasha's fortress on the sea
A few kilometres south of Himara opens one of the most scenic bays on the entire coast, closed off by a small peninsula on which stands the castle of Porto Palermo, built in the early nineteenth century by Ali Pasha of Tepelena, the powerful and controversial feudal lord who ruled much of southern Albania and Epirus. The fortress, triangular in plan with towers at its corners, guards the entrance to the bay where ships once found shelter, and today can be visited freely: its walkways offer one of the most striking views of the riviera, with turquoise waters lapping the rock at the foot of the walls.
The riviera villages: Dhermi, Vuno, Qeparo and Palase
The province of Himara includes some of the most photogenic villages in the Balkans, perched on terraces halfway up the slope among the olive trees. Dhermi, with the old core of Dhermi i Siperm suspended halfway up the mountain, preserves Byzantine churches and a view over the riviera's most famous beach. Vuno, just a little further north, holds stone houses and the Church of Saint Nicholas in its upper part. Qeparo, divided between the historic hilltop village and the marina by the sea, retains an almost intact urban layout, while Palase, at the foot of the Llogara Pass, is the northern gateway to the province and the spot offering the widest view over the whole Bay of Himara.
The Llogara Pass, among pines and endless views
North of the province, the state road linking Vlora to Himara climbs up to the Llogara Pass, above a thousand metres in altitude, crossing the national park of the same name. Here the vegetation changes radically: the belts of Mediterranean scrub and coastal olive groves give way to forests of black pine and beech, in a contrast that makes the pass one of the most intense landscape experiences in the Balkans. From the viewpoints along the hairpin bends, the coast running down to Himara and beyond can be taken in at a single glance, with the Ionian Sea opening up on the horizon: an almost obligatory passage for those arriving at the riviera from the north, and a photo stop no visitor skips.
The sea of Himara: beaches, coves and the Gjipe canyon
The province's coast alternates white pebble beaches with small coves reachable only on foot or by boat, in a succession of waters ranging from emerald green to deep blue. The most singular is undoubtedly Gjipe beach, set at the mouth of a limestone canyon carved by the stream of the same name: it can be reached by a walk among the rocks or by sea, and remains one of the wildest and least developed corners of the entire riviera. There is no shortage of stretches equipped with beach clubs alongside completely free ones, in a balance that lets every kind of traveller find their own patch of sea.
- Himara Beach, the main bay at the foot of the castle
- Dhermi Beach, the riviera's best-known and busiest
- Jala, among the most photographed coves on the coast
- Gjipe, the canyon beach reachable on foot or by boat
- Livadhi, a wide pebble bay between Himara and Dhermi
- Porto Palermo, the bay of Ali Pasha's fortress
- Qeparo Marina, a quieter, less touristy stretch of coast
Flavours, wine and cuisine of the riviera
Himara's cuisine is typical of the Albanian Ionian coast, closely tied to the sea and to the olive oil produced in the centuries-old groves covering the slopes around the villages. Freshly grilled fish, octopus stew, mussels and seafood make up the backbone of local tables, accompanied by vegetables from the hinterland, goat cheeses and byrek, the savoury pastry found everywhere in Albania. There is also a solid winemaking tradition, with vineyards producing the robust white and red wines typical of the country's south, often paired with homemade raki. The cuisine also bears the mark of the Greek influence brought by the historic minority, recognisable in some dishes and in the convivial customs of the villages.
Festivals, churches and popular culture
The province's strong Orthodox Christian identity is reflected in the calendar of religious feasts, celebrated with processions, music and banquets in the villages: the feast days dedicated to the Virgin and to patron saints draw emigrants and descendants of local families scattered across Greece, Italy and the rest of Europe back every summer, in a homecoming that brings the village squares to life. Alongside faith, a rich heritage of polyphonic singing and traditional dances of Epirot origin survives, while the small Byzantine churches scattered among Himara, Vuno and Qeparo preserve frescoes and iconostases that tell of centuries of uninterrupted devotion even through the hardest periods of Ottoman rule.
When to go and how to experience Himara
The ideal season runs from late May to September, when the sea reaches optimal temperatures and the villages come alive with evening activity among restaurants, bars and venues overlooking the coast; July and August are the busiest months, especially in Dhermi, while June and September offer the same climate at a more relaxed pace and with lower prices. For those who love trekking and landscapes without crowds, spring and early autumn bring mild temperatures ideal for exploring the trails between the villages and Llogara Park, when the Mediterranean scrub is in bloom or the mountains take on autumn colours.
Experiences not to be missed
- Strolling through the alleys of Himara's castle at sunset
- Walking through the canyon to Gjipe beach
- Visiting Ali Pasha's fortress at Porto Palermo
- Climbing to the Llogara Pass for the view over the riviera
- Exploring Dhermi's upper village among Byzantine churches and centuries-old olive trees
- Dining on fresh fish at a tavern on the harbour
- Snorkelling in the less crowded coves between Qeparo and Palase
FAQ
Quanti giorni servono per visitare Himara?
Qual è il periodo migliore per andare a Himara?
Come si arriva alla spiaggia di Gjipe?
Himara è adatta a chi viaggia con bambini?
Dove si parcheggia nel centro di Himara?
Si può visitare Himara anche fuori stagione?
Getting there
- Aeroporto Internazionale di Tirana "Nënë Tereza", circa 200 km
- Aeroporto di Valona, in fase di sviluppo come nuovo scalo della riviera, circa 60 km
- La rete ferroviaria albanese non serve la Riviera; il collegamento più pratico resta l'autobus o l'auto da Valona o Tirana
- Da Valona si segue la strada statale SH8 che attraversa il Passo di Llogara prima di scendere verso Himara: un percorso panoramico ma tortuoso, da affrontare con calma. In alternativa si può arrivare da sud risalendo la costa da Saranda e Porto Palermo.
- Il tratto costiero tra Llogara e Himara è stretto e ricco di tornanti: meglio evitarlo di notte o con nebbia, e mettere in conto tempi di percorrenza più lunghi rispetto alla distanza chilometrica.
Perfect for
Calette turchesi, il canyon di Gjipe e spiagge di ciottoli bianchi lungo una delle coste più selvagge dello Ionio.
Un castello bizantino-ottomano, la fortezza di Ali Pasha e secoli di autonomia cristiana raccontati tra le pietre dei borghi.
Dal livello del mare ai boschi di pino del Passo di Llogara, un intero ecosistema mediterraneo in poche decine di chilometri.
Feste religiose, canto polifonico epirota e una minoranza greca che ha conservato lingua e tradizioni per generazioni.
Pesce fresco, olio d'oliva dei terrazzamenti storici e vini robusti del sud dell'Albania.
To see
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