Riviera Albanese

A contested coast: the history of the Riviera

The earliest traces date back to Greek settlers, who in the 8th century BC founded settlements here such as Chimera, today's Himara, and further south Buthrotum, now Butrint. Independent Illyria followed, then the Roman conquest and the long Byzantine rule, when the coast became a crossroads between the East and the Latin West. From the 15th century the Ottoman Empire imposed four centuries of rule, leaving behind mosques, towers and a system of fortified hillside villages, easier to defend from pirates than from the sea itself. In the twentieth century the Riviera experienced Italian occupation during the Second World War and then over forty years of communist rule under Enver Hoxha, who isolated Albania from the world and scattered the coast with reinforced-concrete bunkers, today historical curiosities rather than threats. Only since the 1990s has the Riviera progressively reopened, rediscovering its Mediterranean vocation.

Vlorë, the gateway to the Riviera

Vlorë is the city that opens the Riviera coming from the north, and it is also a symbolic place for the entire Albanian nation: here, on 28 November 1912, Ismail Qemali proclaimed independence from the Ottoman Empire, a moment still celebrated today in the central Flag Square with its Independence Monument. A lively port city, Vlorë combines a modern seafront with a historic centre bearing a multi-ethnic past, with Greek, Ottoman and Italian influences visible in its architecture. Ferries to Brindisi depart from here, and it is the ideal starting point for exploring the Karaburun Peninsula, a marine protected area with crystal-clear waters reachable only by boat, and the still little-visited beaches just outside the city.

Himara, the Greek-Albanian soul of the coast

Himara, the ancient Chimera of the Greek settlers, is the most representative centre of the ethnic Greek minority settled along this coast for centuries: in the inland villages of the Himara area, such as Palasë, Kudhës or Vuno, Greek is still a living language alongside Albanian, and the bilingual signs tell of a coexistence as ancient as it is complex. The old village, above the bay, preserves the remains of a Byzantine castle and Orthodox churches with frescoes worn by time, while the coastal strip below is today dotted with hotels and beach resorts that have grown rapidly in recent years. Himara's beaches, including Livadhi and Potami, alternate pebbles and sand, with a sea that shelves gently and gives particularly intense turquoise hues in the middle hours of the day.

Borsh, the longest beach on the Riviera

With its more than seven kilometres of coastal arc, Borsh boasts the longest beach on the entire Albanian Riviera, a shoreline of pebbles and fine sand overlooked by one of the largest historic olive groves in the Balkans, with trees that, according to local tradition, are several centuries old. The old village, perched on the heights, preserves the remains of a Byzantine castle and rock-cut churches little known even to the coast's own travellers. Less fashionable than Dhërmi or Ksamil, Borsh is the ideal destination for those seeking wide, less crowded beaches, dinners of fresh fish and the authentic feel of a Riviera still on a human scale.

Butrint, the archaeological treasure and UNESCO World Heritage Site

A few kilometres from Saranda, set within a lagoon national park between Lake Butrint and the Corfu Strait, lies one of the most important archaeological sites in the Balkans. Butrint, ancient Buthrotum, was a Greek colony, then a Roman municipium, a Byzantine episcopal seat and finally a Venetian fortress, and it is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site precisely for this millennia-long continuity of occupation. Strolling among the age-old holm oaks, one encounters a Greco-Roman theatre still used for performances, the early Christian baptistery with splendid mosaics, the cyclopean walls of the Illyrian era and the Venetian castle overlooking the lagoon. It is a visit that calls for a slow pace: Butrint should be experienced as a journey through time, not as a simple photo stop.

Between the Ceraunian Mountains and the sea: the Riviera's landscape

What makes the Albanian Riviera unique is its extreme geography: the Ceraunian mountain range, which in some stretches exceeds 2000 metres, plunges almost vertically into the Ionian Sea, leaving very little flat ground along the coast. This means beaches often reachable only via scenic hairpin roads, isolated bays visitable by boat, a wild hinterland covered in Mediterranean scrub, millennia-old olive trees and oak woods. The waters, fed by karst mountain springs, are among the clearest in the Mediterranean, with visibility exceeding twenty metres in many stretches. This mosaic of mountain and sea is home to still-rich wildlife, including birds of prey, Caretta caretta sea turtles along some beaches and, inland, relict populations of Balkan chamois.

When to go and how to experience the Albanian Riviera

The ideal season runs from May to early October, with the tourist peak in July and August, when the most famous beaches such as Ksamil and Dhërmi can become crowded with Albanian, Kosovar and international visitors. Those seeking tranquillity would do well to consider June or September, months when the sea is already warm but prices are lower and the shoreline less crowded. The Riviera is best experienced on the road, hiring a car to tackle the spectacular coastal SH8 between Vlorë and Saranda, alternating beach stops, hikes in Llogara Park and cultural visits to Butrint. It is advisable to book accommodation in advance during high season, while out of season many establishments remain closed until late spring.

• Crossing the Llogara Pass at sunset, with a view of the Karaburun Peninsula
• Snorkelling in the bay of Porto Palermo Castle
• Getting lost among the ruins and lagoon of the Butrint archaeological site
• Swimming out to the islets of Ksamil or exploring them by boat
• Dining on fresh fish along the Saranda seafront
• Walking through the canyon that leads to Gjipe beach, near Dhërmi
• Tasting olive oil and raki in the hillside villages of Borsh and Himara
• Climbing up to the old village of Dhërmi or Himara for a panoramic view of the coast