Portoferraio
Portoferraio is the main town of the island of Elba, in the province of Livorno, overlooking a deep natural gulf that has hosted t...
Updated 21 July 2026
This season · July · Summer
What to do in Portoferraio now
The story
The story of Portoferraio
Introduction and location
Portoferraio lies on the northern coast of the island of Elba, in the Tyrrhenian Sea, within the province of Livorno, and is the island's most populous municipality and administrative capital. The town grew up around a large, sheltered natural gulf that has long served as a key point for navigation between mainland Tuscany and Corsica. Connected to the port of Piombino by ferry, it is the main gateway to Elba for travellers arriving from the mainland. The historic centre, clustered on a rocky promontory, overlooks the harbour with its fortifications, while coves, vine-covered hills and small satellite hamlets spread out all around.
History and origins
The gulf area was already frequented in Etruscan and Roman times thanks to the island's iron deposits, exploited for centuries. The town's current layout, however, dates back to 1548, when Cosimo I de' Medici had a fortified town built from scratch, named Cosmopoli, to defend Elba from Barbary raids and control maritime routes. The Medici walls and forts gave the town its distinctive star-shaped outline, still recognisable today. In 1814 Napoleon Bonaparte, defeated and sent into exile, chose Portoferraio as his residence during his ten months of sovereignty over the island, leaving a mark still visible in the places where he lived.
Nature and landscape
The municipal territory partly falls within the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, which protects the island's coastline, Mediterranean scrub and seabeds. Around the town, rocky stretches of coast alternate with pebble coves and sandy beaches reachable on foot or by boat, while the hilly hinterland is home to vineyards and olive groves that benefit from sunny exposure and mineral-rich soils linked to the island's mining past. The clear waters surrounding Portoferraio, with their varied seabeds, are a popular destination for sailing and scuba diving, aided by shipwrecks and submerged rock walls.
Things to do and see
The historic centre can be explored along uphill lanes, stairways and the bastions of the Medici fortresses, which offer wide views over the gulf. Boat excursions along the Elba coast and ferries to nearby islands and Corsica depart from the harbour. The two residences linked to Napoleon, now national museums, allow visitors to retrace the exile period through original furnishings and documents. Sea lovers can combine swims at nearby beaches with walks through the promontory's scrub, while the streets of the old town host shops, small museums and panoramic spots overlooking the harbour.
Flavours and traditions
The cuisine of Portoferraio reflects the island's dual maritime and rural soul: fresh fish dishes, soups and seafood pasta sit alongside produce from the hinterland such as olive oil and local vegetables. Wine plays a central role in Elba's food and wine tradition, with vines grown on the hillside slopes yielding white and red wines protected by the island's denomination. Sweets tied to festivities and family tradition are also common, often made with simple ingredients like almonds, honey and citrus fruit. Markets and shops in the town centre offer the chance to sample typical products directly from local producers.
Not to be missed
- The Medici fortresses of Forte Falcone and Forte Stella, overlooking the gulf
- Villa dei Mulini, Napoleon's town residence during his exile
- Villa di San Martino, Napoleon's country residence just outside the town
- The historic harbour and walks along the bastions of the fortified old town
- The beaches and coves around the gulf, reachable on foot or by boat
To see
What to see in Portoferraio
Routes · Trovido Route
