Romeno
Romeno è un comune dell'Alta Anaunia, nella parte più settentrionale della Val di Non, in Trentino, adagiato su un soleggiato alto...
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Romeno, on the Plateau of the Alta Anaunia
Romeno lies in the northern part of the Val di Non, in the area known as Alta Anaunia, on a sunny plateau 962 metres above sea level, surrounded by coniferous woods and broad terraced apple orchards. The municipal territory, covering just over nine square kilometres, includes the main village and the hamlets of Malgolo and Salter, and borders the municipalities of Amblar-Don, Cavareno, Dambel, Predaia, Sanzeno and Sarnonico. It is precisely the border with Sanzeno that places Romeno just minutes from one of the most striking spots in Trentino, the small valley of San Romedio, while to the north the landscape rises gently toward the other centres of the Alta Anaunia. This position, halfway between the cultivated valley floor and the first mountain slopes, has made Romeno over the centuries a small agricultural and trading crossroads, while still keeping a clearly recognisable rural identity, made of stone houses, kitchen gardens and orchards that reach almost into the village itself.
The Noble Houses and Painted Facades
The most distinctive feature of Romeno's architecture is its many noble and gentry houses lining the village streets, several of which still preserve frescoed facades dating back to the early eighteenth century, the work of the painter Mattia Lampi, originally from the Val Pusteria but settled in Romeno. It was from this family workshop that, in 1751, Giovanni Battista Lampi was born, the youngest of fourteen children, destined to become one of the most celebrated Neoclassical portrait painters in Europe, active at the courts of Vienna, Warsaw and Saint Petersburg. Although he lived far from his native village for most of his life, Giambattista Lampi never severed his ties with Romeno: in 1773 he frescoed the church of Santa Maria Assunta, and in 1825, by then an old man, he painted there the large altarpiece of the Assunta that still dominates the main altar today. Walking among the houses of the historic centre, with their stone portals and painted decorations, therefore means retracing the footsteps of a family artistic tradition that spanned an entire century.
The Orchards and Apples of the Val di Non
Like much of the Alta Val di Non, the territory of Romeno is shaped by apple growing, which covers the terraced slopes around the village right up to the edge of the houses. Here growers cultivate the historic varieties of the Mela Val di Non DOP, including Golden Delicious and Renetta Canadese, in a landscape that changes colour with the seasons: white with blossom in spring, deep green in summer, red and golden at harvest time between late summer and autumn. Apple growing is not only an economic activity but an identity-shaping element that structures the village calendar, from fieldwork to local agricultural fairs, such as the traditional Fiera di San Bartolomeo, which has always combined the display of farm produce with livestock shows. Alongside fruit growing, Romeno also shares with the Alta Anaunia a tradition of cheesemaking, in particular Trentingrana, another pillar of the local rural economy.
The Hamlets, the Landscape and Nature
The hamlets of Malgolo and Salter, once independent municipalities later merged administratively into Romeno, each preserve their own historic core and a close relationship with the surrounding farmland and woods. Near Malgolo, in the locality known as la Piena, the remains of an ancient fortified settlement were unearthed at the end of the nineteenth century, evidence of the strategic importance this area already held in remote times along the access routes to the Alta Val di Non. The natural landscape surrounding Romeno and its hamlets is dominated by extensive pine woods, crossed by a dense network of paths and walking trails suited to hikes of every level, offering views over the orchards below and the mountains that close the horizon of the Anaunia. The sunny plateau on which the village stands, sheltered from the coldest winds, contributes to a favourable microclimate for both agriculture and outdoor life in every season.
History and Experiences between Romeno and San Romedio
The origins of Romeno date back to pre-Roman times: a votive stele dedicated to Saturn, kept in the parish church, records five families of probable Rhaetic or Celtic stock, among them the Lumennones, to whom tradition often traces the village's name. The quadrangular shape of the historic core suggests an ancient Roman or early medieval settlement, positioned to guard the routes that climbed the valley toward the north. In the heart of the village, between the church of San Bartolomeo, among the oldest in Trentino with Romanesque frescoes of Byzantine flavour, and the church of Sant'Antonio Abate, with its painted cycles devoted to the saint, this layering of different eras can still be felt today. A few kilometres away, beyond the border with Sanzeno, the Santuario di San Romedio awaits visitors in a rocky gorge, a pilgrimage site linked to the legend of the hermit who, left without his horse, rode a bear all the way to Trento: a story that, with the frescoed houses and orchards, completes the portrait of an authentic corner of the Alta Val di Non.
Not to be missed
- The frescoed noble houses of the historic centre, the work of the Lampi family of painters
- The Pala dell'Assunta by Giovanni Battista Lampi in the parish church
- The Romanesque frescoes of the church of San Bartolomeo
- A walk among the Alta Val di Non's apple orchards during blossom or harvest time
- The Santuario di San Romedio, just beyond the border with Sanzeno
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