Palaia Fokaia
Palaia Fokaia, l'Antica Focea, è una piccola località balneare della costa sud-orientale dell'Attica, affacciata sul Golfo Saronic...
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The south-eastern coast of Attica on the Saronic Gulf
Palaia Fokaia lies on the south-eastern coast of Attica, facing the calm waters of the Saronic Gulf, along a stretch of coastline that Athenians familiarly call the Apollo Coast or Riviera. The village belongs to the municipality of Saronikos, which groups together several coastal localities in this area, and sits within easy reach of the capital, accessible by car along the coastal road linking Athens to Cape Sounio. The landscape alternates small rocky coves, pine woods running down to the sea, and wider stretches of beach, offering views whose colours shift with the changing daylight. Unlike the Aegean's more famous islands, this part of Attica retains a character still tied to everyday Greek life, made up of low houses, vegetable gardens, small family-run businesses and a slow pace of life, especially outside the peak summer months.
Origins: the 1922 refugees from Phocaea
The very name of Palaia Fokaia tells the story of its origin. The village was founded by Greek refugees from Phocaea (Foça in Turkish), an ancient coastal city in Asia Minor on the Aegean coast opposite Chios. After Greece's defeat in Asia Minor and the subsequent Convention of Lausanne in 1923, which sanctioned the compulsory population exchange between Greece and Turkey, thousands of Greeks from Anatolia were forced to leave their homes. Many of these families, arriving in Athens in the early 1920s, found new settlements along the Attica coast, rebuilding communities that still carry the names of their cities of origin today. Palaia Fokaia, meaning 'Old Phocaea', is one such place, a small settlement whose very name preserves the memory of a painful exodus, and at the same time the ability to start anew — a theme shared by many small towns along the Attic coast founded in those same years.
Beaches, sea and seaside holidays
Beaches are the real heart of life in Palaia Fokaia. Most are made of sand mixed with pebbles, with shallow, clear waters that shelve gently, making them suitable for families with young children too. The coastline alternates between smaller, more secluded coves reachable on foot along coastal paths, and better-organised stretches with sunbeds, umbrellas and seasonal beach bars. In summer the village comes alive with Athenian holidaymakers, who find here a quieter, less crowded alternative to the better-known beaches of the Apollo Coast, such as Vouliagmeni or Varkiza. The seafront promenade, which can be walked or cycled, is dotted with fish tavernas and cafés for spending the hottest hours in the shade, while sunset over the Saronic Gulf, with the silhouette of the islands on the horizon, remains one of the most photographed moments for visitors.
The fishing harbour and the islet of Patroklos
The small harbour of Palaia Fokaia is still an active fishing port today, where the colourful boats of local fishermen return every morning with fresh catch destined for the village's tavernas. Walking along the pier, past nets laid out to dry and moored fishing boats, offers a genuine atmosphere, far removed from more polished tourism. Just off the coast, a short distance from the mainland, rises the uninhabited islet of Patroklos, also known as Gaidouronisi. Visible from much of the shoreline, the islet is a visual landmark for anyone strolling along the seafront or sailing this stretch of the Saronic Gulf, and, according to tradition, takes its name from a Hellenistic-era admiral who had fortifications built there. Boat trips organised by local fishermen make it possible, during the summer months, to approach its rocky shores.
Close to Cape Sounio and Anavyssos
One of the great advantages of Palaia Fokaia is its strategic position along the southern coast of Attica. Continuing south along the coastal road, Cape Sounio can be reached in just a few minutes, home to the famous Temple of Poseidon, one of Greece's most striking ancient sanctuaries, built on a headland dropping sheer to the sea and visited daily by travellers who come to watch the sunset among its Doric columns. In the opposite direction, towards Athens, lies Anavyssos, another well-known seaside resort on the Attica coast, with wider beaches and a livelier beach scene. This in-between location makes Palaia Fokaia a convenient base for those wishing to combine seaside relaxation with a highly rewarding archaeological excursion, without giving up the tranquillity of a small settlement far from the crowds.
Getting there and practical tips
Palaia Fokaia can be reached comfortably by car from Athens along the southern coastal road towards Cape Sounio, a drive of around an hour that passes through some of the best-known towns of the Apollo Coast. It is also connected to the capital by KTEL bus lines running along the Attica coast, a useful option for those without their own car. The best time to visit is from May to September, when the fish tavernas along the seafront are open and the sea invites a swim, though an out-of-season trip also offers striking views and a quieter atmosphere. For those staying in the area, Palaia Fokaia works well as a stop on a wider itinerary along the southern coast of Attica, combined with Cape Sounio, Anavyssos and Lavrio, discovering a coastline that blends history, sea and authentic local life.
Experiences not to miss
- Swim in the clear waters of Palaia Fokaia's sand-and-pebble beaches
- Stroll along the fishing harbour among the local fishermen's boats
- Admire the islet of Patroklos (Gaidouronisi) just off the coast
- Visit the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounio at sunset
- Dine at a seafront fish taverna and continue the itinerary towards Anavyssos
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