Žabljak

Origins and the land of the Drobnjaci

Before becoming a hiking destination, the plateau around Zabljak was the land of shepherds and clans. It belonged to the Drobnjaci, one of the tribes of the Brda, the 'Highlands', who together with the peoples of Old Montenegro resisted Ottoman pressure for centuries, defending their high-altitude pastures. The very shape of the land, a karst plateau enclosed by rock walls and narrow valleys, long made this area difficult for any outside power to control, and equally difficult to inhabit permanently: the long winters and deep snow imposed a semi-nomadic life, with transhumance to the high katun in summer and retreat to the lower villages in winter. Only with the rise of mountain tourism after the Second World War did the small settlement take on the role of administrative centre and point of reference for the whole Durmitor area, becoming the seat of the municipality and the logistical base for the first ski lifts and hotels.

Bobotov Kuk, the iconic peak of the Durmitor

At 2,523 metres, Bobotov Kuk is the most famous peak of the Durmitor and for decades was considered the highest point in Montenegro, before more recent surveys assigned the absolute record to a peak in the Prokletije massif, on the border with Albania. It remains, however, the most sought-after climb in the region: the marked trail generally starts from the Sedlo saddle or the Dobri Do area and crosses scree, high-altitude meadows and stretches fitted with metal ropes on the final rocky pitches, requiring good physical fitness but no specific mountaineering equipment in summer conditions. From the summit, on clear days, the view sweeps across the entire Durmitor amphitheatre, the Tara Canyon and, to the south, as far as the mountains of Herzegovina and Bosnia.

The eighteen eyes of the mountain

In addition to the Black Lake, the Durmitor holds seventeen other basins of glacial origin, which local tradition calls 'gorske oci', the eyes of the mountain, for their almost circular shape and crystal-clear water set among the rocks. Some, such as the Fish Lake (Riblje jezero) or the Snake Lake (Zminje jezero), can only be reached by hikes of several hours across remote plateaus such as Skrka or Jablan, while others remain snow-covered and frozen until late spring. Each lake has its own character: some are surrounded by meadows where flocks graze in summer, others by vertical walls that turn them into small natural amphitheatres. Visiting them takes time and trained legs, but rewards you with the most authentic image of the Durmitor: a plateau dotted with water, silent, almost devoid of human presence outside the main trails.

The Djurdjevica Tara bridge

Built between 1937 and 1940 to a design by engineer Mijat Trojanovic, the Djurdjevica Tara bridge spans the canyon with five reinforced-concrete arches over a length of 365 metres and a height of 172 metres above the river, and at the time it was one of the boldest concrete structures in Europe. Its history is intertwined with that of the Second World War: in 1942 engineer Lazar Jaukovic, who had overseen its construction, blew up one of the spans to slow the advance of the Italian occupying troops, and was later captured and executed by those same occupiers on the very bridge he had helped to build; the structure was rebuilt after the war. Today the bridge is also the starting point for one of the highest ziplines in Europe, which crosses the canyon offering a dizzying perspective over the Tara.

Trekking and hiking in summer

From June to September the Durmitor turns into a network of marked trails ranging from a simple one-hour walk to a multi-day mountaineering traverse. Among the most popular destinations are the Ledena pecina ice cave, which preserves ice formations even in high summer, the Curevac viewpoint with views over the Black Lake and the surrounding peaks, and the routes that link the various glacial lakes across plateaus such as Skrka and Dobri Do, often dotted with stone shelters that can be used as stopovers. More experienced climbers also head for Prutas and Sljeme, other peaks of the massif that offer alternative views over the Tara Canyon. Waymarking, maintained by the national park, is generally good, but weather conditions at altitude can change rapidly even in high summer.

Flavours and culinary traditions

The cuisine of Zabljak reflects its pastoral economy: sir iz kace, cheese matured in wooden barrels, is considered among the best in Montenegro, as is the kajmak produced in the same high-altitude katun. Dishes such as cicvara, a corn polenta creamed with fresh cheese, or lamb slow-cooked under a cast-iron bell (ispod sace), tell of a cuisine poor in ingredients but rich in flavour, designed to withstand the long mountain winters. In summer the Durmitor forests yield wild blueberries and mushrooms, which often appear on the menus of local restaurants alongside mountain honey. Plum or apple rakija, artisanally distilled, accompanies almost every meal and is often offered as a welcome in homes and small family-run guesthouses.

When to go and how to experience Zabljak

Zabljak is experienced in two very different seasons. Summer, from June to September, is the best period for trekking, lakes and rafting, with long days and temperatures that remain cool compared to the Montenegrin coast thanks to the altitude; July and August are the busiest months, while June and September offer quieter trails. Winter, from December to March, belongs instead to skiers and to those seeking snowy landscapes and a more intimate atmosphere, with temperatures that can drop well below zero. The shoulder seasons, spring and autumn, are the least predictable: snow can linger at altitude until May, and the autumn colours of October make the Durmitor spectacular, but with shorter days and reduced services. In every season it is worth bringing layered clothing, even in high summer.

• Walk around the Black Lake and continue on to the Curevac viewpoint
• Climb Bobotov Kuk for the view over the entire Durmitor massif
• Cross the Tara Canyon on the zipline that starts from the Djurdjevica Tara bridge
• Go rafting on the waters of the Tara between the canyon walls
• Visit a high-altitude katun to taste freshly made cheese and kajmak
• Ski or cross-country ski on Savin Kuk in winter
• Hike to one of the lesser-known glacial lakes, such as Zminje jezero or Skrcko jezero