Paxos
According to myth, Paxos was born of a gesture of love and a desire for peace: Poseidon, god of the sea, struck his trident agains...
Updated 7 July 2026
Paxos
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The story
The story of Paxos
A crossroads of stories between myth and dominations
The history of Paxos is a complex mosaic, shaped by its strategic position along the Adriatic trade routes. After the Byzantine period, the island was often prey to pirate raids, until in 1386 it came under the control of the Republic of Venice. This long period, lasting roughly four centuries, left an indelible mark: it was the Venetians who encouraged the massive planting of olive trees, transforming the island's economy and landscape. After the fall of the Serenissima, Paxos experienced a brief Napoleonic and Russian interlude, before passing under British protection in 1815. It was only in 1864 that the island was finally united with the Kingdom of Greece. Every ruling power has left its traces in the architecture, the local surnames and the culture, making Paxos a perfect synthesis of Hellenic spirit and Western European elegance.
Gaios: the drawing room by the sea
Gaios is the beating heart of the island, a capital that enchants with its unique layout. The harbour is entered through a narrow, evocative natural channel, sheltered by the islet of Agios Nikolaos, which acts as a natural breakwater. Strolling along the quay, one admires historic buildings with ochre and pink façades, typical of the Ionian-Venetian style, housing elegant taverns and cafés. The main square is the heart of social life, where residents mingle with sailors in a convivial atmosphere. Despite its international prestige, Gaios retains the soul of a fishing village, where fishing nets dry beside luxurious yachts, creating a fascinating and harmonious contrast that defines the character of the whole island.
The Venetian Fortress of Agios Nikolaos
On the islet that closes off the harbour of Gaios stand the remains of an imposing Venetian fortress, whose construction began in 1423 to a design by Adam Sanmicheli. This structure was vital in defending the population from frequent raids by pirates and the Ottoman fleet. Today, engulfed in wild vegetation, the fortress preserves part of its walls, the original cannons and a small chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas. Visiting the islet (with permission, or aboard small local boats) means taking a journey back in time, enjoying a privileged view over Gaios and understanding the military importance this small island held for centuries in controlling the Ionian Sea.
Lakka: the blue horseshoe
At the northern tip of the island lies Lakka, a village set in an almost enclosed circular bay that recalls the shape of a horseshoe. The waters here are particularly calm and shallow, taking on shades ranging from turquoise to emerald green thanks to the reflection of the dense surrounding vegetation. Lakka is beloved by sailors for its safe shelter and by travellers seeking a more intimate atmosphere. The village is a maze of narrow, flower-lined lanes converging on the seafront, where excellent seafood restaurants can be found. Nearby, shaded paths lead to hidden coves and to the lighthouse, from which one of the island's most spectacular views unfolds over the open sea and the coast of Epirus.
Loggos and the old Soap Factory
Loggos is the smallest and most picturesque of Paxos's three main harbours. It is a village that looks as though it stepped out of a painting, with coloured houses reflected in the still waters of the port. At the entrance to the village stands the old Anemogiannis soap factory, a red-brick industrial building with a tall chimney, today a silent witness to the island's important production past linked to olive oil. Loggos is renowned for its high-quality dining scene, with taverns serving reinterpreted traditional dishes. In the evening, the village glows with soft lights, offering a romantic, intimate atmosphere, ideal for those seeking the quintessence of Greek island life away from the crowds.
The Olive Museum in Magazia
Located inland, in the hamlet of Magazia, the Olive Museum is housed in a perfectly restored 18th-century olive press. This place is essential to understanding the soul of Paxos: the olive tree here is not just a plant, but the very foundation of the culture and survival of its inhabitants. Inside the museum, the original tools for pressing olives are on display, along with stone mills and large terracotta jars used to store the oil. The exhibition traces the evolution of extraction techniques and the social importance of olive presses, which were once the nerve centres of the community during the winter harvest months.
The Tripitos Arch: a geological wonder
Along the southern coast of Paxos lies one of the island's most photographed natural monuments: the Tripitos Arch. It is a giant natural rock arch, the remnant of a collapsed sea cave, rising more than twenty metres above sea level. The structure is so solid and wide that it is possible to walk across it, although caution is required. The sight of the arch framing the endless blue of the sea is breathtaking, especially at midday when the light brings out the whiteness of the limestone. Reached via a somewhat rough path through the olive groves, Tripitos embodies the wild power of nature that ceaselessly shapes the island's profile.
The Blue Caves and the Erimitis Cliffs
The western coast of Paxos is radically different from the eastern one: here the land plunges vertically into the sea, forming towering limestone cliffs. In this setting open the famous Blue Caves, enormous sea caverns accessible only by boat. The most celebrated is the Ipapanti cave, so vast that during the Second World War a Greek submarine is said to have found refuge there. Not far away, the Erimitis cliffs offer an unforgettable sight, especially at sunset, when the white rock turns orange and violet. A beach recently formed beneath these walls following a landslide, becoming one of the wildest and most striking spots for those who love deep waters and primordial landscapes.
Antipaxos: the twin paradise
Just two nautical miles south of Paxos rises Antipaxos, its small and uninhabited sister island. If Paxos is the island of olive trees, Antipaxos is the island of vineyards and fine sandy beaches. The bays of Vrika and Voutoumi are famous throughout the Mediterranean for the clarity of their waters, which take on electric hues reminiscent of the Caribbean. The interior of Antipaxos is a well-tended garden, producing a full-bodied, rare red wine much appreciated by connoisseurs. An excursion here is a must: one can spend the day swimming in crystal-clear waters and lunching at one of the panoramic taverns overlooking the bays, enjoying an isolation and natural beauty that have few equals in the Ionian Sea.
The landscape: a silver forest by the sea
The landscape of Paxos is dominated almost exclusively by the olive tree. It is estimated that the island holds over 200,000 trees, many of them centuries old, with gnarled, twisted trunks that look like living sculptures. Unlike the low-pruned olive trees found in other regions, here the trees grow tall and free, creating a canopy of silvery leaves that shelters the paths from the summer sun. This continuous woodland is broken only by dry-stone walls of local rock, old rainwater cisterns and small rural chapels. The island's limestone geology guarantees crystal-clear waters but few surface springs, making the local flora a remarkable example of adaptation to the Mediterranean climate.
Local traditions and flavours
The culture of Paxos is intimately linked to the produce of land and sea. The local olive oil, made from the 'Lianolia' variety, is renowned for its fruity flavour and low acidity. Besides the oil, island cuisine offers specialities such as 'bourdeto' (spicy fish soup), 'sofrito' (veal in garlic and vinegar) and 'pastitsada', dishes that reveal a strong Venetian influence. Religious festivals, the 'panigiria', are moments of great popular participation, especially the one on 15 August in Gaios, when the statue of the Virgin is carried in procession by sea. During these celebrations, traditional Ionian music and group dances turn the squares into vibrant centres of life and folklore.
- Renting a small motorboat to explore the coves of the eastern coast independently.
- Walking the paths that link Gaios to Magazia to discover the rural interior.
- Watching the sunset from the Erimitis cliffs, sipping a glass of local wine.
- Snorkelling in the sea caves of the western coast.
- Visiting the church of Ipapanti, hidden among the olive trees with its detached bell tower.
- Spending a day of total relaxation on the beaches of Antipaxos.
When to go and how to experience the island
The ideal period to visit Paxos runs from May to the end of September. Spring is magical for the wildflowers in bloom and the mild temperatures, ideal for hiking. July and August are the hottest and busiest months, though the constant breeze keeps the climate pleasant. September offers warm waters and a more relaxed atmosphere, perfect for those seeking tranquillity. Paxos is best explored on foot or by renting a scooter, since distances are minimal but the roads narrow. The island has no airport, which has helped preserve its exclusivity and discreet charm; most visitors arrive by sea from Corfu or from mainland Greece (Igoumenitsa).
FAQ
Come si raggiunge Paxos?
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Getting there
- Aeroporto Internazionale di Corfù (CFU) - collegato via mare
- Non presenti sull'isola
- L'isola è piccola; una volta sbarcati a Gaios, ci si muove lungo l'asse stradale principale che collega Gaios, Loggos e Lakka.
- Prenotate in anticipo l'aliscafo (Flying Dolphin) da Corfù, specialmente in alta stagione, poiché i posti sono limitati.
Perfect for
Un paradiso per chi ama navigare, con baie protette e grotte spettacolari accessibili solo via acqua.
Ideale per chi cerca una fuga dalla frenesia, immersi nel silenzio degli uliveti secolari.
Eccellente cucina ionica basata su olio d'oliva di altissima qualità e pesce freschissimo.
To see