Kalami
In 1935 a penniless young English writer, Lawrence Durrell, rented for a handful of drachmas a fisherman's house right on the shor...
Updated 8 July 2026
This season · July · Summer
What to do in Kalami now
The story
The story of Kalami
The origins and history of a contested stretch of coast
The north-eastern coast of Corfu, of which Kalami is part, was for centuries a strategic crossroads between East and West. The island fell under the rule of Corinth in archaic times, was later contested by Athenians and Spartans, then crossed by Roman legions and finally, for over four centuries, governed by the Republic of Venice, which made it a bulwark against Ottoman expansion. The geographical closeness to the coast of present-day Albania, visible to the naked eye from Kalami on clear days, made this area a crucial observation point: forts, watchtowers and small garrisons once dotted the coastline to signal the arrival of enemy ships. The village as we know it today, however, began as a simple fishing community, isolated and long reachable only by sea or mountain paths, until the roads built in the twentieth century opened it up to visitors.
Kalami and the myth of Lawrence Durrell
It is impossible to tell the story of Kalami without speaking of Lawrence Durrell, who moved there as a very young man together with his first wife Nancy and his large family, brother Gerald included, fleeing the grey climate of England. The "White House", the white house perched over the water that they rented for a symbolic sum, became the refuge where Lawrence wrote part of his early work and where his love for Greece matured, a love that would run through his entire literary output, from "The Alexandria Quartet" to his books on the Greek islands. Gerald Durrell, who would go on to become a celebrated naturalist and writer, set precisely in this area the childhood memories collected in "My Family and Other Animals", helping to turn Corfu and its surroundings into a mythologised destination for entire generations of English-speaking readers. Today the White House hosts on its ground floor a taverna bearing the same name, which remains an almost obligatory stop for anyone arriving in Kalami in search of that literary era.
The White House: the house turned taverna
The building stands right on the shoreline, its foundations brushing the water and a small terrace stretching out over the jetty. Probably built in the nineteenth century as a fisherman's dwelling, it still retains today the simple, squared lines of popular Ionian architecture, with white lime plaster and blue or green shutters, the same colour scheme found in many traditional houses across the Greek islands. Inside and around it are plaques and references to the Durrells' stay, and the view from the table closest to the water, with the Kouloura headland on the right and the Albanian mountains in the background, is almost identical to the one described in the pages of "Prospero's Cell". For lovers of travel literature, sitting here at sunset with a plate of local fish is a small ritual experience.
Kouloura: the most photographed little harbour on the coast
A few minutes on foot or by car from Kalami, following the coastal road north, you reach Kouloura, a tiny inlet that holds perhaps the most reproduced image of the entire north-eastern coast of Corfu: a horseshoe-shaped harbour, two tavernas facing the water, brightly coloured fishing boats and a small cypress grove running down to the shore beside an ochre-coloured nineteenth-century villa. The contrast between the dark green of the cypresses, the white of the boats and the turquoise of the water has made Kouloura a classic photo stop, yet the place still retains an authentic atmosphere, helped by its small size, which has always limited mass tourism development.
The landscape: from olive-covered hills to the Corfu channel
The whole area around Kalami is dominated by the contrast between the intense green of the hinterland and the deep blue of the sea. The hills sloping down to the coast are covered with centuries-old olive groves, some with gnarled trunks that speak of centuries of cultivation, interspersed with slender cypresses, holm-oak woods and Mediterranean scrub scented with thyme and myrtle. The stretch of sea separating Kalami from the Albanian coast, known as the Corfu Channel, is relatively narrow: on clear days you can distinctly make out the mountain ridges of southern Albania, a detail that lends particular charm to this corner of Greece, suspended between two worlds. The coastline alternates small coves of white pebbles, shallow transparent waters ideal for swimming, and rockier stretches where the scrub almost dips into the sea.
Kalami beach and the nearby bays
Kalami's main beach is a compact bay of fine pebbles and mixed sand, sheltered on both sides by rocky headlands that shield it from the wind and keep the water almost always calm, a feature that makes it suitable even for families with small children. The clarity of the water, due to the stony seabed free of sediment, allows the bottom to be seen even several metres down. A little further south lies the smaller twin bay of Kalami, and continuing along the coast, the beaches of Agni and Nissaki, equally renowned for the quality of the water and for the fish tavernas that look straight out onto the shoreline, in a sequence of coves that has made this stretch of coast one of the island's most sought-after destinations for those seeking clean sea away from the noisier tourism of southern Corfu.
Old Perithia and the inland villages
Climbing from the coast towards the interior, the road passes through the village of Old Perithia (near Mount Pantokrator), an ancient mountain settlement half-abandoned after the war and today partly repopulated with a few tavernas and restored stone houses. The village retains the typical layout of pre-tourism Ionian settlements, with narrow lanes, frescoed Byzantine churches and two-storey stone houses, and is an evocative place for those wishing to discover a more authentic Corfu, less trodden by coastal crowds. From here also begins the path up Mount Pantokrator, the island's highest peak, offering views stretching from the Ionian Sea to the Balkan coastline.
Traditions, cuisine and local life
The cuisine of Kalami and the neighbouring villages is rooted in the farming and seafaring traditions of the Ionian Islands, with clear Venetian influences in dishes such as sofrito, a meat stew in vinegar and garlic sauce, and pastitsada, pasta topped with meat braised in a spiced tomato sauce, both legacies of the long Venetian rule. Fish, of course, is the absolute star: sea bream, white bream, grilled octopus and prawns are served in tavernas just steps from the water, often caught only hours earlier. The extra virgin olive oil produced by the surrounding olive groves, of high quality thanks to the mild microclimate, accompanies almost every dish, while the local wine, produced in limited quantities, pairs naturally with the flavours of the sea. Religious feasts dedicated to the patron saints of the nearby villages still mark out the summer with processions, folk music and stalls.
When to go and how to experience Kalami
The ideal season runs from May to early October, with the sea reaching pleasant temperatures already from June and staying mild well into October. July and August are the busiest months, especially at weekends, while May, June and September offer the perfect compromise between warm weather, clear water and a more modest tourist influx, ideal for enjoying the tavernas without queues and the scenic roads without excessive traffic. Spring, with the hills covered in wildflowers, is the best season for those who love hiking towards Old Perithia and Mount Pantokrator. Kalami is best experienced on foot or by boat: many visitors choose to rent small boats to explore the nearby coves otherwise reachable only by sea.
Experiences not to be missed
- Lunch or dinner at the White House taverna, Lawrence Durrell's former home overlooking the water
- Photograph the little harbour of Kouloura amid cypresses and colourful boats
- Swim in Kalami's sheltered bay with its clear, calm waters
- Rent a small boat to reach the isolated coves along the coast
- Climb up to the abandoned village of Old Perithia
- Hike up Mount Pantokrator for the view over the Corfu Channel
- Dine on fresh fish in Agni, the nearby bay famous for its historic tavernas
Surroundings and recommended itineraries
Kalami is an excellent starting point for exploring the entire north-eastern coast of Corfu. Heading north you reach Kassiopi, a fishing village with a ruined Venetian castle and livelier nightlife, and finally Sidari, famous for the rock formations of the Canal d'Amour. Heading south, the scenic road leads to Nissaki and the bays of Agni and Gimari, while the hilly hinterland shelters small farming villages where time seems to move more slowly. Many visitors plan their holiday choosing Kalami as a quiet base, then travelling for the day to Corfu Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site about forty minutes away by car, with its Venetian fortresses, French-style arcades and pastel-coloured historic centre.
FAQ
Come si raggiunge Kalami da Corfù città?
Quando è il periodo migliore per andare a Kalami?
Cosa vedere a Kalami in un giorno?
Dove si parcheggia a Kalami?
Kalami è adatta alle famiglie con bambini?
Quanto tempo conviene restare a Kalami?
Getting there
- Aeroporto Internazionale di Corfù Ioannis Kapodistrias (CFU), circa 25 km / 35-40 minuti d'auto
- Da Corfù città seguire la strada costiera verso nord in direzione Kassiopi/Sidari, superando Gouvia, Dassia e Nissaki fino alla deviazione per Kalami; percorso panoramico ma con tornanti stretti nell'ultimo tratto.
- Nei mesi di luglio e agosto meglio arrivare al mattino presto per trovare posto auto e un tavolo con vista nelle taverne più richieste; la strada costiera è affascinante ma stretta, guidare con prudenza soprattutto nei tratti a strapiombo.
Perfect for
Acque trasparenti e calme in una baia riparata, ideali per nuotare e per esplorazioni in barca lungo le calette vicine.
Sulle tracce di Lawrence e Gerald Durrell, tra la White House e i paesaggi che ispirarono le loro pagine più celebri.
Taverne sul mare con pesce fresco, ricette di eredità veneziana come sofrito e pastitsada, olio extravergine locale.
Uliveti secolari, cipressi, il sentiero verso il monte Pantokrator e il villaggio abbandonato di Corfù Vecchia.
Vista sul canale di Corfù e sulle montagne dell'Albania, visibili nitidamente nelle giornate terse.
To see
What to see in Kalami
Routes · Trovido Route
