Cefalonia
Kefalonia is not simply the largest of the Ionian Islands; it is a miniature continent, a fragment of Greek land where geology see...
Updated 7 July 2026
Cefalonia
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The story
The story of Cefalonia
A crossroads of civilisations: the history of Kefalonia
The history of Kefalonia is a mosaic of dominations that have left indelible marks on the character of its people. Inhabited since the Palaeolithic era, the island experienced a period of great splendour in Mycenaean times, as evidenced by the imposing tholos tombs found in the south. Over the centuries, its strategic position at the mouth of the Adriatic made it a coveted prize: after the Romans and Byzantines, it was the Venetians who ruled it for almost three centuries, leaving an architectural style and social structure still perceptible today in the few surviving historic buildings. After a brief French interlude and British protectorate, Kefalonia joined Greece in 1864. The 20th century, however, was the harshest, marked by the massacre of the Acqui Division in 1943, one of the most painful chapters of Italian history abroad, and by the 1953 earthquake that razed almost all of the Venetian architecture to the ground, leaving only the village of Fiskardo intact.
Lake Melissani: where the sky meets the underground
Few places in the world possess the magic of Lake Melissani, located near Sami. It is a lake cave discovered in 1951, whose ceiling partially collapsed due to an ancient earthquake, allowing zenithal light to penetrate and strike the waters. The result is a unique chromatic spectacle: at midday, when the sun's rays fall vertically, the water becomes so transparent that visitors' boats seem to float in mid-air. The cave walls are adorned with stalactites, and legend has it that this was the place of worship of the nymph Melissanthi, who drowned herself for love of the god Pan. The rowing boat excursion through the silence of the cavity is a mystical experience, a journey to the centre of the earth where cobalt blue and emerald green merge into hypnotic reflections.
Drogarati Cave: a natural underground theatre
A short distance from Melissani lies Drogarati Cave, a masterpiece of nature formed over millions of years. Descending to a depth of about 60 metres, you reach an immense chamber known as the 'Hall of Apotheosis', famous for its exceptional acoustic properties. Here, amid forests of stalactites and stalagmites in orange and limestone hues, world-famous artists such as Maria Callas have performed, turning the cave into an unrivalled natural auditorium. The constant temperature of 18 degrees and high humidity create a distinctive microclimate, making a visit refreshing during hot summer days. The majesty of the rock formations, artfully lit, tells of the slow, relentless work of water that continues to carve Kefalonia's underground even today.
Myrtos Beach: the icon of Ionian blue
If there is one image that sums up Kefalonia to the world, it is that of Myrtos beach. Nestled between the feet of two mountains, Agia Dynati and Kalon Oros, this crescent of small, smooth white pebbles overlooks a sea whose shades shift from turquoise to deep blue within just a few metres. The view from above, along the coastal road descending towards the shore, is breathtaking: the contrast between the blinding white of the shore and the intensity of the water creates an almost surreal effect. Myrtos is not merely a beach but a natural monument subject to currents that continually reshape its profile. At sunset, when the sun dips directly into the sea facing the bay, the sky and water are painted in pink and orange, offering one of the most striking moments in all of Greece.
The Castle of Agios Georgios and the ancient capital
Towering over the village of Peratata, the Castle of Agios Georgios (Saint George) was for centuries the administrative centre and capital of the island under Venetian rule. This polygonal fortress, covering an area of around 16,000 square metres, offers a panoramic view stretching all the way to the islands of Zakynthos and Ithaca. Within its walls, one can still glimpse the remains of churches, storehouses and noble residences, as well as a mysterious tunnel that connected the castle to Argostoli. Walking among its ruins means retracing the daily life of a medieval citadel that withstood numerous pirate sieges. The surrounding village, with its narrow lanes and traditional taverns, retains a quiet, understated charm, far from the busier tourist flows of the coast.
Fiskardo: the jewel that time spared
At the island's northern tip lies Fiskardo, the only village not destroyed by the 1953 earthquake. This fishing village has preserved its original Venetian architecture intact, with pastel-coloured houses and flower-decked balconies overlooking a sheltered harbour. Today Fiskardo is Kefalonia's most glamorous location, a destination for luxury yachts and frequented by the international jet set, yet it has not lost its authentic elegance. The waterfront taverns serve the freshest fish, while trails leading out of the village take you to ancient lighthouses and remains of early Christian basilicas nestled among cypress greenery. It is the ideal place for those seeking a cosmopolitan atmosphere without giving up the charm of history and the beauty of a coastline dotted with small, secluded bays.
Assos: an embrace between land and sea
Assos is perhaps Kefalonia's most picturesque village, built on a slender isthmus connecting a small peninsula to the mainland. Dominated by the ruins of an imposing 16th-century Venetian fortress, the village is a maze of colourful houses mirrored in calm, crystal-clear water. The climb up to the castle, along a road lined with pines and olive trees, rewards visitors with a spectacular view over the bay and the jagged coastline. The peace one feels in Assos is almost tangible; here life flows slowly between a coffee in the square and a swim in the surrounding coves. The castle's architecture, with its still well-preserved entrance gate, testifies to the strategic importance this outpost held in guarding the Ionian Sea from enemy incursions.
Mount Ainos National Park
At 1,628 metres, Mount Ainos is Kefalonia's green giant and the heart of its national park. This mountain is unique for the presence of Abies cephalonica, the Kefalonian fir, an endemic species that covers the peaks in a dark, dense mantle. Exploring Ainos means discovering an unusual side of the island, made up of alpine trails, fresh air and extraordinary biodiversity, including wild horses that roam freely on the eastern slopes. On clear days, from the summit the view can sweep across the entire Ionian archipelago, all the way to the coasts of the Peloponnese. It is a paradise for trekking and birdwatching enthusiasts, offering a refreshing contrast to the warm beaches below and revealing the island's wild, mountainous soul.
Argostoli and the De Bosset Bridge
Argostoli, the modern capital, is a vibrant city carefully rebuilt after 1953. Its heart is the Lithostrato, the pedestrian street for shopping and strolling, but the true engineering landmark is the De Bosset Bridge. Built in 1813 by the British, it is the longest stone bridge over the sea in the world and separates the Koutavos lagoon from the rest of the bay. Walking along the bridge offers a privileged view of the city and the surrounding nature, where it is not uncommon to spot Caretta Caretta sea turtles swimming near the harbour in search of food among the fishermen's nets. Argostoli is also home to important museums, such as the Archaeological Museum and the Folklore Museum, which preserve the historical and cultural memory of an island that has always known how to rise from its own ashes.
Traditions and flavours: Kefalonian cuisine
Kefalonia's gastronomy is a tribute to the produce of the land, shaped by the long Venetian presence. The signature dish is 'Kreatopita', a savoury meat pie (often a mix of lamb, pork and veal) enriched with rice, spices and a crisp pastry crust. The island is also famous for its Robola wine, a dry, mineral white produced from grapes grown on the limestone slopes of Mount Ainos, perfect alongside fresh fish or local cheeses such as feta and kefalotyri. Sweet influences are not lacking either, such as 'Mandoles', caramelised almonds dyed red with natural seaweed, a legacy of the Venetian period. The cuisine here is an act of local pride, based on simple yet superb-quality ingredients, such as thyme honey and intensely flavoured extra-virgin olive oil.
- Admire the sunset from Myrtos beach, as the colours change every minute.
- Take a rowing boat excursion on the underground lake of Melissani in the middle of the day.
- Taste Robola wine straight from one of the wineries in the Omala valley.
- Look for Caretta Caretta sea turtles along Argostoli's harbour early in the morning.
- Walk the trails of Mount Ainos to spot the wild horses and enjoy the panoramic view.
- Wander among Fiskardo's colourful lanes, enjoying an iced coffee by the harbour.
- Visit the Monastery of Agios Gerasimos, the island's most important spiritual centre.
FAQ
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Getting there
- Aeroporto Internazionale di Cefalonia 'Anna Pollatou' (EFL) - situato a circa 8 km da Argostoli.
- Non sono presenti linee ferroviarie sull'isola.
- Si raggiunge in traghetto dai porti di Kyllini o Patrasso (Grecia continentale) verso Sami o Poros. In estate ci sono collegamenti diretti dall'Italia (Bari e Brindisi).
- Prenotate il noleggio auto con largo anticipo nei mesi estivi, poiché la richiesta è altissima e i prezzi salgono rapidamente.
Perfect for
Perfetta per chi ama il trekking sul Monte Ainos e l'esplorazione di grotte spettacolari e foreste di abeti.
Un paradiso per gli amanti delle spiagge, dalle distese di sabbia rossa di Xi alle scogliere bianche di Myrtos.
Un luogo profondo per chi vuole approfondire le vicende della Seconda Guerra Mondiale e l'eredità veneziana.
To see
