Dodecaneso

A crossroads of civilizations: a thousand years of history

The history of the Dodecanese is an account of conquests and resistances, dictated by its strategic position on trade routes between Europe, Asia, and Africa. Inhabited since the Bronze Age by Minoan and Mycenaean populations, the islands saw the flourishing of city-states of enormous importance in the classical period, such as Rhodes, home to one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. After Roman rule and the long Byzantine interlude, the archipelago's destiny changed radically in 1309, when the Knights Hospitaller of Saint John took control of Rhodes, transforming it into an impregnable fortress against the Ottoman advance. This period left an indelible architectural imprint, still visible today in the fortified citadels that dominate the main ports.

In 1522, after an epic siege, Suleiman the Magnificent conquered the islands, initiating almost four centuries of Ottoman rule, during which the Greek communities nevertheless maintained a certain cultural and religious autonomy. A particular and lesser-known chapter concerns the Italian occupation, which began in 1912 during the Italo-Turkish War and lasted until 1947. The Italians invested heavily in infrastructure, archaeology, and urban planning, leaving a legacy of eclectic and rationalist public buildings that give centers like Kos and Rhodes a unique appearance. Only in 1948 was the Dodecanese officially reunited with Greece, closing a millennial cycle of foreign influences.

The Asklepion of Kos: the cradle of medicine

A few kilometers from the city of Kos, nestled in a cypress forest with breathtaking views of the strait separating Greece from Turkey, stands the Asklepion. This ancient healing sanctuary, dedicated to the god of medicine Asclepius, was the most famous medical center in the ancient world, where Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, studied and taught. The site is structured on three large terraces connected by imposing marble staircases: the first housed the medical schools and patient rooms, the second the temples and altars for sacrifices, and the third the great Doric temple. The energy of the place is palpable; even today, one can perceive the deep connection between the care of the body and that of the spirit that characterized the medical science of the time.

The Acropolis of Lindos

Lindos is perhaps the most picturesque village in the entire Dodecanese, a maze of white houses climbing a steep cliff dominated by its ancient Acropolis. The walk up through the cobbled alleys leads to an extraordinary archaeological site, where the columns of the temple of Athena Lindia stand out against the blue of the sky and the sea. What makes this place special is the superposition of eras: the walls fortified by the Knights surround the remains of the Greek sanctuary and the Byzantine propylon. From the summit, the view sweeps over Saint Paul's Bay, a natural, almost enclosed harbor where legend has it that the apostle landed during his travels. The Acropolis is not just a monument, but a privileged observatory on the wild beauty of the Rhodian coast.

The smaller islands and the wild hinterland

Beyond the more famous destinations, the Dodecanese hides pearls of rare beauty where time seems to have stood still. Kalymnos is the island of sponge fishermen and today one of the world's capitals for sport climbing thanks to its limestone cliffs. Nisyros harbors an active volcano in its heart, whose caldera, known as Stefanos, allows one to walk among fumaroles and sulfur crystals in a lunar landscape. Karpathos, located further south, keeps archaic traditions alive in the village of Olympos, where women still wear traditional costumes and speak a dialect with Doric influences. These smaller islands offer direct contact with nature and with a popular culture that has not succumbed to the logic of mass tourism.

• Explore Rhodes Old Town at sunset, when the medieval stones turn golden.
• Descend into the caldera of Nisyros volcano to listen to the Earth's breath.
• Bathe in the thermal waters of Kallithea in Rhodes, surrounded by Moorish architecture.
• Attend a traditional festival in Karpathos to discover ancient songs and dances.
• Sail among the islets of Lipsi and Arki to find deserted beaches and crystal-clear waters.
• Savor fresh fish in the tavernas of Astypalaia's port, the butterfly-shaped island.

When to go and how to experience the archipelago

The ideal period to visit the Dodecanese is from late spring (May and June) to early autumn (September and October). During these months, temperatures are pleasant, nature is in bloom or the colors are warm, and tourist crowds are reduced compared to August. Full summer is perfect for those who love beach life and don't mind the heat, which is nevertheless mitigated by the Meltemi, the northern wind that blows consistently. To fully experience the archipelago, the advice is to combine a visit to a larger island with one or two smaller islands, using local ferries or fast catamarans that connect the main ports. Moving between the islands allows one to grasp the nuances of a territory that changes its face at each landing, yet always maintains the same promise of hospitality and beauty.