Palaiokhora

A story of borders and rebirths

Palaiokhora's roots stretch back to antiquity, likely rising on the vestiges of the Doric city of Kalamydi. However, its present historical profile was largely shaped during the Middle Ages. In 1282, the Venetians, led by the noble Marino Gradonigo, recognized the strategic importance of this strip of land and built a fortress to control local rebellions and protect maritime routes from pirates. It was precisely this castle, called Selino, that gave its name to the entire surrounding province, testifying to the settlement's central role in the island's administration. The history of the place is marked by moments of dramatic rupture, such as the destruction wrought by the famous pirate Barbarossa in 1539, which reduced the settlement and fortress to ruins, leaving the area nearly deserted for centuries.

Palaiokhora's modern rebirth began only towards the end of the 19th century, when families from the nearby area of Kandanos began resettling on the coast to exploit the agricultural and commercial potential of the port. During this period, the town became an important center for exporting olive oil and agricultural products to the rest of Greece and Egypt. During World War II, the village experienced German occupation, but managed to rise with dignity. In the 1960s and 1970s, Palaiokhora was discovered by hippie travelers, who made it a sanctuary of peace and untouched nature, laying the foundation for the sustainable tourism development that characterizes it today, far from the large hotel complexes of the north.

The Church of Evangelistria

In the heart of the town center stands the magnificent Church of Evangelistria, the city's cathedral. This religious building stands out for its imposing bell tower in white stone, crafted with a mastery that recalls Venetian style reinterpreted by local sensibility. The interior is an example of Orthodox devotion, enriched with finely painted icons and an atmosphere of profound spirituality. The church serves as the focal point for the village's social life; the square in front is where the community's most important moments are celebrated, from patron saint festivals to Easter solemnities, representing the beating heart of Palaiokhora's identity.

Chalikia and the eastern coast

Diametrically opposite to Pachia Ammos lies Chalikia, the pebbled beach facing east towards Sougia. Here the water is incredibly crystalline and assumes deep cobalt blue shades. Chalikia is often preferred by those seeking shelter when the wind blows from the west and by snorkeling enthusiasts, attracted by the rocky seabeds rich in marine life found at the bay's extremities. The walk along this beach is dotted with tamarisks offering natural shade and small tavernas where you can taste fresh fish just landed from fishing boats moored at the nearby harbor.

The Gorge of Anidri and its beach

For trekking enthusiasts, the Gorge of Anidri is an unmissable excursion. The route starts from the picturesque village of Anidri, where the Byzantine church of Agios Georgios decorated with frescoes by Ioannis Pagomenos stands, and descends through a non-too-demanding canyon to the pristine beach of Gialiskari. Walking between rocky cliffs and fragrant bushes of oregano and thyme, you reach a series of small coves of white pebbles bathed by emerald-colored sea. It is an experience that combines physical activity with the discovery of remote corners of rare scenic beauty.

When to go and how to experience Palaiokhora

Palaiokhora is a destination that can be enjoyed from April to November. Spring is the magical time for hikers, when nature explodes in wild flowering and temperatures are perfect for walking. Summer is hot but mitigated by the Meltemi wind and sea breeze; it is the ideal period for those seeking seaside life and lively evenings. September and October instead offer still-warm waters and a recovered calm, ideal for those desiring a deep relax. To fully experience the place, forget about your car: the center is small and can be easily explored on foot, allowing you to savor every detail of this Cretan outpost facing the endless sea.